martes, 28 de mayo de 2013

The Escargot Harvest


Sometimes, the smallest thing can trigger a whole string of memories. They are there, as indelible as black ink. Held in place by the countless retelling at random parties and family get-togethers. Just the other day, we were having paella with our friends. The shells in my plate reminded me of the scene in “Pretty Woman” when Julia Roberts is trying to hold the escargot with the special pliers when swoosh the “slippery little sucker” goes flying… I free-associated this to the story of the escargot my family harvested in Mar del Plata.

My brother Gabriel must have been three; I was six or seven. I remember the doll that I got for Reyes Magos, the Epiphany of the Three Kings, which for us is the holiday when kids get gifts from the Three Kings, usually the best gifts in the year. I agonized over which name I should give my doll, which was a male baby in a blue overall. I remember naming it Pablo—I didn’t know anybody named Pablo back then, and thought it was the warmest name for a chubby baby in a blue hooded overall. We were on vacation in San Bernardo with my grandma Lolá, my aunt and my parents. The adults had befriended another family at the beach (oh! so this was something that was normal!!). It was a rainy, or perhaps just cloudy day, and the new acquaintances had invited us to go on a picnic to el Bosque de Peralta Ramos. Someone made up a silly rhyme which went something like this: “Adónde vamos?/Al Bosque de Peralta Ramos” (Where are we going?/We go the Bosque Peralta Ramos). I was mispronouncing “Peralta Ramos” and it sounded more like “peral pa’ ramos”, which was quite funny (a pear tree for branches).

We arrived at el Bosque and started getting the stuff out of the trunk to start the picnic. We were equipped with a few styrofoam ice-boxes, they were the rave back then, styrofoam was a revolutionary thing. We had folding chairs and tables, bottles of Coca-Cola and Crush, the popular orange soda of the 60’s. We set the tables and started taking out the banquet… cheese, various salamis and a whole big round mortadella, loaves of bread, olives, and some cans of patefua and Criollitas was the typical fare at picnics like these—I don’t remember what we were having this particular day... Then, someone yelled out… “Look! There’s a snail!” We were in fact camping in an eucalyptus grove, which was a natural habitat for these creatures. “There’s another one!”, mom yelled. Someone had the idea of harvesting them… but where would we collect them? In the styrofoam boxes! We emptied the boxes of all their contents… and filled them up to the brim with snails. At the end of the day we loaded them in the trunk and took them back to our rental apartments. My grandma had to “purge” the snails for a couple of days by feeding them quartered apples and carrots.

Gabriel and I were fascinated. We loved to play with them; they were perfectly innocent live gummy creatures. We held them in our hands and waited patiently for them to crawl out of the shell. They stretched their bodies and their anthenae-like eyes… If we touched them, they immediately retreated back into their little caves. The little critters loved crawling out of the boxes. The morning after we woke up to find them scattered all over the apartment. As you can imagine, this provided a fantastic entertainment for us for a while. We loved to harvest them again, especially the ones that had climbed up all the way to the ceiling. We had to climb on top of the fridge to get the “slippery little suckers”.

I love telling this story every time there’s a snail in my plate; it turns out “escargot” make a delicious tale as well as a meal… if you like them, let me know and I can look up my grandma Lola’s recipe.

This happened around the time when my brother gave us the biggest scare—one of them, as he seemed to have had a penchant for finding dangerous situations and escaping unscathed. A blond boy with his straight hair falling over his forehead in long bangs, deep green eyes and a stare that could freeze a burglar in his steps. In the various pictures I’ve seen, he’s always occupied with something in his hands—perhaps examining intently, “fixing” a broken car wheel, or torturing some unsuspecting insect. Invariably there’s a deep frown and his lips are tightly pressed. You could say he was an intense boy. Adorable, angelically blond, a perfect disguise for the hyper-active little devil inside.

The apartment we had rented that summer in San Bernardo was on a high-rise, ocean-front tower. We were on the sixth or seventh floor, and the windows of the master bedroom opened wide to the beach view, the Atlantic stretching far and wide. The windowsill was waist-high for an adult, but Gabriel wanted to take a peek, so he pushed a chair and managed to climb up. Lola, our grandma, was in her early fifties. It was a nice evening, and she was getting ready to take us out to dinner, or perhaps for a walk outside. She was sitting on the bed with her back to the window, she looked in her mirror while putting on mascara and lipstick—her sole beauty staples. She didn’t realize the window had been left open, and was calmly talking to Gabriel about the barquitos and the wandering light of the lighthouse far in the distance. Gabriel was asking about this and that, and then he referred to something downstairs by the park, perhaps the swings…and this question gave her a jolt—he couldn’t have seen this with the windows closed. She turned around and saw him leaning over, dangerously, with half of his little body outside and his arms stretched out. There was nothing for him to hold on to. She didn’t scream. She didn’t even speak… Very slowly, she walked toward him and grabbed him by the waist.  Then she closed the window, her complexion turned pale as a paper,  and sat down on the bed to cry and pray.

Lolá loved us so much. She was the soul of our family, back then. In my eyes, she was a powerful tornado of a woman. A petite lady, she wore her brunette hair in high up-dos that added a couple of inches and made her seem a bit taller. She seemed to know it all, it seemed to me--all the recipes, all the remedies, all the ways to skin a cat… She baked the best bollitos—hand-made pastries made of flour and fat . She was charming, admired by everyone. I was always in awe of the things that she produced—sweets and home-made gnocchi from her kitchen, incredibly delicious marmalades of every kind imaginable. Once she made a tiny little brown cape with real fur trimming for my dolls.  She must have thought I wasn’t looking… but of course, I was. 

martes, 21 de mayo de 2013

Hanging Pictures


Hanging Pictures—by Miriam Fabiancic

I finish hanging the paintings in my new home, and the whole place magically becomes mine. It’s that simple. They are old paintings we’ve collected in our many destinations, where we’ve lived and where we’ve traveled. Some used to be in the living room in New York, and after the move end up in the master bedroom. It doesn’t matter. The paintings go up—and all of a sudden, it’s home. We just hanged a whole bunch of them this weekend in our new apartment in Caracas.

The beautiful, colorful, eclectic pieces by the artist from Tucuman, which we got in the 90’s while visiting that most wonderfully scented province in Northern Argentina—nicknamed “El jardín de la República” (the Garden of the Republic). Nick and I were sightseeing; across from the main square which was infused with the scent of orange blossoms, when we found a magnificent old mansion, occupied by a bank, a classic example of Spanish Plateresco architecture.  We went in to admire the fountain, the back patio and the wrought iron windows. Beyond the back patio, there was a sign advertising the show of a graduating fine artist opening that same evening. We peeked through the glass at the interior of the gallery and saw some rather large-scale abstract mixed-media pieces, in the most varied palette—one was mostly white with some urban landscape sketching in pale reds, grays and blues. Another was mostly turquoise green with the same dream-like bridges hanging from nowhere to nowhere… yet another evoked city lights from the distance. And the most daring one, with reeds parting in what seemed like a big divide of sorts. We decided to go back that night to the show’s opening.

There were just a few people and one of them was the thin, wispy young woman whose work was being featured. She was shy. My husband took me aside, asked me which ones I liked the most, and cautioned me to say nothing—as if this was easy for me. He proceeded to negotiate the purchase of five paintings. We brought our booty back home rolled in neat cardboard cilinders.  We were living in Caracas back then. I had the pictures framed here, and the frames costed an arm and a leg… much more than we had paid for the art. The artists’ name was Cristina Aguilera. If she’s still out there, I should send her this story. Perhaps it would mean something to her… to know that her paintings have been witness to our lives. In Caracas, in Santo Domingo, in New York… and now they are providing the backdrop to this new chapter… again in Caracas.

I have since become a bit of an artist myself—if only an aspiring one.  I’ve only framed two or three oils-on-canvas. Two of them feature vases with flowers, which I find quite sensual and intriguing. The other one is a mysterious, darker oil I’ve christened “Amsterdam Café”. I’ve always been fascinated by the atmosphere in a café. Especially if it’s a beautiful café like this Grand Café in the Netherlands which I copied from a postcard. The scene is a classic “contraluz”, a dimly lit restaurant, with scattered tables, some of them occupied by some lonely souls, and random couples talking. It’s a quiet room. The window in the back is the sole source of light except for the art-decó lamps which are at center-stage.

Today I also hanged the two black-and-white photographs of Nick and I when we were little. Nick’s portrait is a small two-by-five. In the picture, he is about four years-old. There’s a car tire and the boy with the cutest smile in the world, who is playing with a couple of tools on the wheel. You can see the mischief in his smile and his eyes. I can imagine the scene, perhaps his father had a flat and was changing the tire with young Nick running around and “helping” him. I wonder if papa took the picture or if one of the aunts was nearby watching, perhaps looking after the boy. I wonder whose camera it was, and who might have been the object of that adorable smile.

Mine is a beach scene. The portrait is twice as large as Nick's. I was also three or four. I am sitting on the sand in a bikini, and quite fashionably, I have a neat white cardigan buttoned up at the neckline. My chubby belly is exposed. I have a scarf on my head tied back in perfect 60’s fashion. A bucket full of sand sits by my thighs. I know this picture was taken in Mar del Plata. I close my eyes and can still feel the cold sand beneath me, the texture of it in my fingers. I am holding a small shovel. What a joy it was to play in the sand… I must have been a handfull. I heard my mom tell how I got lost in the crowd one afternoon. I was collecting sticks for a sandcastle. I took a turn behind the reclining umbrella, and suddenly I was lost. An agonizing half-hour later, I appeared straddled on a stranger’s shoulders, while people clapped to attract attention.

We were both happy kids.

I know it’s silly, but the paintings, the photos, the knick-knacks, and the books that I’ve collected through the years sort of hold the keys to our story. Each painting, each photo, each memento has something to tell. I intend to be just a funnel for those stories here… before I forget them, or better yet, before more stories accumulate and the old ones fall to the bottom of the barrel and get lost forever.